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Fresno’s New Gordita Shop is an Homage to Mom’s Cooking - KQED

Huerta was a wonderful cook, but she guarded her recipes carefully, keeping them even from her own daughter. And she was competitive! If a family member praised a dish made by someone else, she would strive to make one better.

Huerta was so well known for her cooking that some clients’ families even asked her to cater their events. She dreamed about opening her own restaurant one day. It would be a small takeout place to serve the working people of Fresno, just like back home in Durango.

Love and Loss During the Pandemic

While Huerta continued to work as an in-home caregiver in Fresno, her daughter, Lizett Lopez, left her hometown for the glamorous big city. As a kid, Lopez had always wanted to live in San Francisco. After completing her general education requirements at Fresno City College, she applied to transfer to San Francisco State. She graduated with a biology degree and got a job in the Bay Area as a data analyst.

A hand holds a spoon to scoop food in a tray.
The picadillo gordita filling at Lucy’s Gorditas in Fresno on Sept. 11, 2023. (Martin do Nascimento/KQED)

When the coronavirus pandemic hit at the beginning of 2020, Lopez and her husband decided to move back to Fresno to be closer to family. She was pregnant with their first son and wanted her mom’s help with the baby. For several weeks after the birth, Huerta stayed with Lopez, teaching her everything she needed to know as a new mom.

Huerta had diabetes, and around this time, she developed an infection in her leg. At first, she didn’t take it too seriously. It was early in the COVID pandemic, and she was scared to go to the hospital. One day, when Lopez called to check on her mom, she realized Huerta wasn’t lucid. Her son rushed her to the hospital.

The infection had turned gangrenous, and Huerta went into sepsis. The doctor did several surgeries to remove the infection, but it was too late. The infection had spread throughout her bloodstream. Huerta passed away at age 61, leaving behind six sons and one daughter.

It was a very traumatic time for Lopez, who had just given birth. She wasn’t sure if her intense sadness was postpartum depression or just grief at losing her mother.

Lucy’s legacy lives on

As Lopez and her brothers mourned the loss of their mother, a birthday rolled around. Normally, Huerta would let the person whose birthday it was request a special treat. After her death, Lopez carried on the tradition. She asked her brother what he wanted for his birthday meal. He replied, “gorditas.”

Two hands shape a piece of dough above a metal bowl.
Lizett Lopez shapes the corn dough to make the gordita wrap at Lucy’s Gorditas in Fresno on Sept. 11, 2023. (Martin do Nascimento/KQED)

Lopez had never made gorditas before but promised to do her best. She was nervous, worried she wouldn’t be able to recreate her mother’s recipes from memory. So, she was pleased when her first gorditas turned out well.

That’s when one of her brothers suggested they open a family restaurant. What better way to honor their mother’s memory than following her dream? They quickly found a place on East Clinton Avenue, and Lucy’s Gorditas was born. Lopez works at the shop during the week, while her brothers take over on weekends. The shop has little nods to Huerta all over it — her favorite butterflies and hummingbirds decorate the walls, and, of course, her photo at the cash register.

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https://news.google.com/rss/articles/CBMiWGh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmtxZWQub3JnL25ld3MvMTE5NjgyMzgvZnJlc25vcy1uZXctZ29yZGl0YS1zaG9wLWlzLWFuLWhvbWFnZS10by1tb21zLWNvb2tpbmfSAQA?oc=5

2023-11-30 15:30:56Z
CBMiWGh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmtxZWQub3JnL25ld3MvMTE5NjgyMzgvZnJlc25vcy1uZXctZ29yZGl0YS1zaG9wLWlzLWFuLWhvbWFnZS10by1tb21zLWNvb2tpbmfSAQA

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