Less ink has been spilled in the quest for the Holy Grail than a more elusive prize: the perfect Thanksgiving turkey. Every year, magazines and newspapers and websites — including, of course, The Washington Post — offer up the latest and greatest takes on the recipes and techniques that will produce for the reader willing to follow along the bronzed, juicy, flavorful centerpiece of their holiday table that they’ve been dreaming of.
Of course, we can’t print the same dang thing every year — since the word “new” is literally in our mandate — so when it comes to turkey recipes, we tweak, we innovate, we present people with novel and different ways of preparing this annual feast, and in particular, that often-fretted-over main dish.
If you’ve been in the turkey-making game long enough, you have probably encountered some of these feathered friends. They’ve been basted, brined, bagged, fried, deboned. Cooked at high heat. Low heat. Microwaved? (Only to thaw it, whew.) Instant Pot-ed? (Of course.) They’ve been flavored with everything from ginger to tarragon.
But please, dear reader, don’t blame us for needlessly injecting novelty into the turkey discourse (speaking of injections, we have previously suggested attacking your bird with a syringe). Tastes change. Technology changes. And recipes always reflect broader cultural shifts.
“There’s a saying in food media that every Thanksgiving is a cook’s first turkey,” says Kim Voss, a University of Central Florida professor who studies the history of food journalism. “But it’s another cook’s twentieth — so the question is how do you balance out the need for the basics and the fact that someone has been cooking for so long, it’s like ‘give me something new.’”
We dug into our archives to take a look at all the many ways we’ve suggested that readers wrangle those birds. Much has changed over the previous century and a half (including some of the now-cringey language used to describe home cooks). Oh, and the photography is better these days. Come, let’s take a look at these turkeys of yore (and some practically yesterday).
Putting your in bird in a bag to roast is a polarizing proposition. To some, it seems like a gimmick; to others, a hazard — our reader call-out last year asking people for their biggest Thanksgiving cooking disasters elicited a couple stories of bags gone bad. Still, we recommended it effusively in 2016, though with the caveat that it’s not going to result in crisp skin: “If you’re looking to cook the turkey faster and keep its meat moist throughout, the bag’s for you. If you want to skip scrubbing the roasting pan, the bag’s for you. If you want the turkey’s skin to be evenly browned and crisped, it might not be for you.”
And, like hemlines and denim profiles, everything that’s old is new again. My colleague Becky Krystal just this year once more sang the praises of the turkey prepared in a humble oven bag (Reynolds began selling their food-safe, heat-resistant nylon version in 1971, she notes), this time stuffed with lemon, apple, garlic and herbs to season the flesh and its juices. She likes the hands-off approach it offers to today’s harried families: “Fill it, drop it in a roasting pan and cook.”
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2023-11-14 15:09:43Z
CBMiYGh0dHBzOi8vd3d3Lndhc2hpbmd0b25wb3N0LmNvbS9mb29kLzIwMjMvMTEvMTQvdGhhbmtzZ2l2aW5nLXR1cmtleS1jb29raW5nLXN0eWxlLW1ldGhvZC1oaXN0b3J5L9IBAA
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