Smashed potatoes have creamy-dense interiors that contrast perfectly against their craggy, well-browned exteriors. Preparing them is a multistep process, but one well worth the effort. First, we simmer the potatoes in heavily salted water, then drain them, put them on an oiled baking sheet, crush them with a flat-bottomed object such as a sturdy cup, and, finally, roast them in a hot oven. Afterward we flavor them with sauces, such as a tangy-sweet red chimichurri. For Indian-inspired potatoes, sliced jalapeños bring chili heat, and a trio of coarsely ground spices — cumin, coriander, and fennel — adds texture and warm, earthy flavor. And adding rosemary and garlic to the cooking water contributes a complexity to smashed potatoes we toss with a chili-lemon vinaigrette.
Smashed Potatoes With Chili-Lemon Vinaigrette
Makes 4 servings
To make these potatoes, we first boil whole fingerlings or small Yukon Golds in well-seasoned water then flatten and roast them in a ripping-hot oven. Plenty of salt, along with rosemary and garlic, add flavor; the salt also raises the boiling point of the water, which speeds cooking.
We smash the cooked potatoes and finish them in the oven, so they can be cooked all at once rather than in batches in a skillet.
We take a cue from Mokonuts, a Parisian café, and dress the smashed potatoes with a tangy-spicy vinaigrette that accents the potatoes’ flavor. We also get full use out of the garlic clove used to season the cooking water, mashing it into the dressing to add flavor and body.
When boiling the potatoes, begin timing as soon as they’re added to the water. To make ahead, the potatoes can be boiled, smashed, cooled, and refrigerated a day in advance; to finish, brush with oil and roast as directed.
The vinaigrette can be made in advance except for the chilies, then covered and refrigerated until ready to use; bring to room temperature and add the chilies.
The potatoes should not cool completely before smashing; they are easier to flatten and they hold their shape better when warm.
2½ pounds fingerling potatoes or small (1- to 1½-inch) Yukon Gold potatoes
4 medium garlic cloves, peeled
3 rosemary sprigs
Kosher salt
¼ cup lemon juice
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 small jalapeño or Fresno chili, stemmed and sliced into thin rings
¼ cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Heat the oven to 500 degrees with a rack in the middle position. In a large pot set over high heat, bring 2 quarts water to boil. Add the potatoes, garlic, rosemary, and ½ cup salt, then cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until a skewer inserted into the largest potato meets no resistance, 18 to 22 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet; place the garlic in a small bowl; remove and discard the rosemary. Let the potatoes cool for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, using a fork, mash the garlic to a paste, then stir in the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of oil, followed by the chilies; set aside.
After the potatoes have cooled slightly, carefully remove the rack from the baking sheet. Wipe away any moisture on the baking sheet and place the potatoes in an even layer directly on the sheet. Using the bottom of a dry measuring cup or ramekin, press down on each potato so it is slightly flattened and splits open but remains intact. Brush the tops of the potatoes with the remaining 4 tablespoons oil.
Roast the potatoes, without moving them, until browned and crisp, 35 to 40 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, transfer to a serving platter, then sprinkle with the parsley and drizzle with the vinaigrette.
Smashed Potatoes With Red Chimichurri
Makes 4 to 6 servings
A pantry-friendly red chimichurri sauce is a perfect spicy, tangy-sweet accompaniment to the potatoes. Leftover chimichurri, if you have any, will keep for up to a week in the refrigerator; bring to room temperature before serving.
2½ pounds small (1- to 1½-inch) Yukon Gold or fingerling potatoes, unpeeled
Kosher salt
9 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil, divided
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
2 tablespoons red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons dried oregano
1 medium garlic clove, finely grated
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or cilantro, to serve
Flaky sea salt, optional, for garnish
Heat the oven to 500 degrees with a rack in the middle position. Add the potatoes and 3 tablespoons salt to a large pot, then add 2 quarts water. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until a skewer inserted into the largest potato meets no resistance, about 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the chimichurri, in a small saucepan set over low heat, combine 6 tablespoons oil, and the paprika, pepper flakes, and oregano. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture begins to bubble, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the garlic, then cool to room temperature.
When the potatoes are done, drain them in a colander and let cool for about 10 minutes. Coat a rimmed baking sheet with 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil. Distribute the potatoes in an even layer on the baking sheet and, using the bottom of a dry measuring cup or ramekin, press down on each potato so it is slightly flattened and splits open but remains intact. Brush the tops of the potatoes with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Roast the potatoes without turning them until browned and crisp, 35 to 40 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk the vinegar and ½ teaspoon salt into the infused oil. When the potatoes are done, use a wide metal spatula to transfer them to a platter. Drizzle with some of the chimichurri and sprinkle with parsley and flaky sea salt, if using. Serve the remaining chimichurri on the side.
Indian-Spiced Smashed Potatoes
Makes 4 to 6 servings
These crisp on the outside, dense and creamy on the inside smashed potatoes are our riff on the gunpowder potatoes we loved at Dishoom, an Indian restaurant with multiple locations in the United Kingdom. Blooming the spices in butter just before tossing with the smashed potatoes draws out their character while also infusing the fat for better distribution of flavor. Dishoom serves a cooling raita alongside the potatoes (see the following recipe), but if you prefer a simpler accompaniment, offer lime wedges for squeezing.
Look for potatoes that are uniformly sized, as they will cook at the same rate, so you won’t have some that are underdone while others are overcooked. Also, it is best not to stir the potatoes during roasting. Leave them be to maximize browning and crisping.
2½ pounds small (1- to 1½-inch) Yukon Gold, red, or fingerling potatoes
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
3 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil
2 jalapeño chilies, stemmed and sliced into thin rings
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
4 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 4 pieces
¾ teaspoon ground fenugreek (optional)
3 scallions, thinly sliced
¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
Lime wedges and/or raita, to serve
In a large pot, combine the potatoes, 3 tablespoons salt, and 2 quarts water. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring occasionally, until a skewer inserted into the potatoes meets no resistance, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 500 degrees with a rack in the middle position.
Drain the potatoes in a colander. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and toss with the oil. Using the bottom of a dry measuring cup or ramekin, press down on each potato so it flattens slightly and splits open but remains intact. Roast without stirring for 20 minutes, then sprinkle evenly with the chilies. Continue to roast without stirring until the potatoes are crisp and well browned, another 10 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a spice grinder, combine the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds; pulse until coarsely ground. In a small saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the ground seeds and fenugreek (if using) and cook, swirling the pan, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes; set aside.
When the potatoes are done, use a wide metal spatula to transfer them to a large bowl. Add the spiced butter; toss to coat. Fold in the scallions and cilantro. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve with lime wedges and/or raita.
Raita
Makes about 1 cup
In a small bowl, stir together ¾ cup plain, whole-milk Greek yogurt; 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro; 2 tablespoons lime juice; 2 tablespoons water; 1 jalapeño chili (stemmed and minced); 1 scallion (thinly sliced); and kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste.
Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to 177milkstreet.com/globe. Send comments to magazine@globe.com.
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2023-10-24 16:18:59Z
CBMiWGh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJvc3Rvbmdsb2JlLmNvbS8yMDIzLzEwLzI0L21hZ2F6aW5lL3NtYXNoZWQtcG90YXRvLXJlY2lwZXMtZnJvbS1taWxrLXN0cmVldC_SAQA
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