Good morning. I know it’s Good Friday. I know Passover begins tonight. I realize Sunday is Easter and for a lot of us meals are going to run hard all the way through the weekend: briskets, lambs and hams, gefilte fish and deviled eggs and kugel, all our friends. Here come some hot cross buns to follow the fish pie! Unless maybe you’re making an Easter pie? Or assembling the Seder plate? I get it. These are busy times.
But still I have a project for you and I really want you to bear down and make it on Saturday because it’s easy to do and will pay such incredible dividends over the course of the next few weeks, until you run out and have to make it again because: delicious.
I want you to make XO sauce (above).
I wrote about this magical concoction this week for The Times, after learning to make it from Diana Kuan, whose new cookbook “Red Hot Kitchen” is an invaluable guide to making the fiery sauces of Asian cuisine. XO is a delicious condiment, thicker than a proper sauce and thicker, for sure, than the suspended-in-oil versions that you see in restaurants, a fish-pong-fiery umami bomb that elevates all that it touches, from noodles to greens to your favorite stir-fry. Kuan and I spread one batch on crackers, sitting in her kitchen in Brooklyn, and ate them one by one.
The recipe is very, very simple, complicated only in the shopping and even then not really because you can find everything online: dried scallops; dried shrimp; dried red chiles. Everything else is in your pantry, or at the bodega or food store. Wherever you buy them, steam the scallops soft, then pull out your food processor and a wok. Within a half-hour, you’ll have your new favorite flavor and flavor enhancer, and you’ll thank the heavens, Diana Kuan and maybe me a little bit, too. XO sauce is the truth.
And that’s it! The rest of the weekend, cook as your religion, culture or upbringing demands. Here’s a last-minute recipe for haroseth, should you need one. Here’s all you need for Easter, down to a recipe for homemade Peeps. Some will fire up their grills for sausage, onions and peppers. Others will work on their simple, crusty breads. But please, all of us, let’s make XO sauce this weekend, and march into springtime with jars at the ready.
Thousands and thousands of other recipes to cook this weekend are available to you on NYT Cooking, at least once you take out a subscription to our site and apps. So do that! You’ll get more than recipes. There’s cooking instruction as well. Here, for example, is all that you need to know about cooking ham. Also, how to make pancakes.
There’s more inspiration on our Instagram, on our Twitter and Facebook as well. And here’s good news. We’re on YouTube. Subscribe now and check out Alison Roman, cooking her latest recipe.
And if you run into trouble with anything, please write for help: cookingcare@nytimes.com. We’ll get back to you. Or you can shout at me, if it makes you feel better: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I’ll try to do the same.
Now, it’s a long fly ball from bitter herbs and pineapple rings, but I think you ought to read this Harper’s feature by Joe Kloc, about the “anchor-outs” who live on abandoned boats in Richardson Bay, north of San Francisco. It’s a sad story.
Did you know that The Times has a site dedicated to stories about the experiences and costs of war? We ought to. The United States, after all, has been at war for 18 years. It’s called “At War” and you ought to check in on it regularly. I do, and found this lovely essay by Kelly McHugh-Stewart, about feeding her husband an M.R.E., a taste of her childhood as an Army kid.
Hanna Raskin, the restaurant critic for The Post and Courier of Charleston, S.C., introduced me to Danny Raskin (no relation), who has been filing restaurant reviews for The Detroit Jewish News for seven decades. He’s 100 and has written for 4,000 issues in a row.
Finally, here’s an interesting dive into the pivot-to-tech business culture of Sweetgreen, your favorite yoga teacher’s other-job lunch option and a go-to favorite of my wife and children for dinner when Pops is on the road, in Inc.
See you on Sunday!
https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/19/dining/what-to-cook-this-weekend.html
2019-04-19 14:30:02Z
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