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Ease Into Spring With This Light, Quick-Cooking Recipe for Black Bass - The Wall Street Journal

BODY BUILDER A judicious amount of butter gives just enough oomph to the light, bright cherry-tomato sauce on this roast black bass. Photo: Ryan Liebe for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Jamie Kimm, Prop Styling by Vanessa Vazquez

The Chef: Jonathan Benno

Illustration: MICHAEL HOEWELER

His Restaurants: Benno, Leonelli Taberna and Leonelli Focacceria e Pasticceria, all in New York’s Evelyn Hotel

What He’s Known For: Thoughtful, precise takes on French and Italian cooking. Keeping it classical

“WHEN YOU PUT YOUR NAME on a marquee in New York, that’s a big deal,” said Jonathan Benno. The veteran chef did just that last November when he opened Benno, a fine-dining restaurant focusing on French and Mediterranean cooking, in Manhattan’s Evelyn Hotel. To get to the skylit art-deco dining room, guests pass through Mr. Benno’s Roman-style trattoria, Leonelli Taberna. And across the hotel’s lobby his Leonelli Focacceria e Pasticceria turns out sweet and savory pastries that nod to the cafes of Rome as well as New York’s own Little Italy.

The chef comes well prepared to helm this ambitious three-way operation. Previously, he served as chef de cuisine at Thomas Keller’s Per Se in Manhattan, and when he broke out on his own at Lincoln Ristorante he moved from haute cuisine in a French idiom to Italian alta cucina. The classical technique and clean, elegant style he’s developed over the years come through in this recipe, his first Slow Food Fast contribution. Black-bass fillets roast for just a few minutes in a simple sauce of burst cherry tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, shallots and white wine. A topping of torn basil provides color as well as fragrance.

“The sauce is called a vierge—a classic preparation,” the chef explained. “I chose black bass because it’s in season, easy to find and not too thick, so it cooks quickly.” Mr. Benno finds this recipe an especially good fit for the start of spring. “This is light,” he said, “and how we want to eat now.”

TOTAL TIME: 25 minutes SERVES: 4

4 (6-ounce) skin-on black-bass fillets

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to finish

1 shallot, minced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 serrano chile, thinly sliced

4 tablespoons cold butter, cubed

⅓ cup white wine

24 cherry tomatoes, halved

Leaves from ½ bunch parsley, finely chopped

Kosher salt

⅓ cup roughly torn basil leaves

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Pat fish dry and season with salt. Chill, uncovered, until ready to cook.

2. Set a medium pan over medium heat. Swirl in olive oil, shallots, garlic, chile and half the butter, and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add wine and bring to a simmer. Once alcohol burns off, after about 3 minutes, stir in remaining butter, tomatoes and parsley. Continue to simmer until tomatoes begin to burst and sauce thickens slightly, about 4 minutes more. Season with salt to taste.

3. Spread half the sauce over the bottom of a medium baking dish. Arrange fish fillets in a single layer over sauce and spoon remaining sauce over fish. Bake until fish is cooked through and flakes easily when pinched at thickest part, about 8 minutes. Top with basil, and season with salt and a drizzle of olive oil.

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https://www.wsj.com/articles/ease-into-spring-with-this-light-quick-cooking-recipe-for-black-bass-11554397429

2019-04-04 17:03:00Z
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